World On A Plate

Cookies & Cocoa

               

October in the Bay Area is, in most years, the best month to enjoy Mediterranean-like weather.  However, this weekend skies were gray and reports of heavy rains are forecasted for the days ahead. It's hot chocolate weather.  However I wanted something sweet alongside that treat.

So while it may come as a surprise to some, that for two years I have tried to replicate a pumpkin-chocolate chip cookie offered at the coffee shop in the little hamlet where I live with no success, I decided to try again.  The taste of this cookie: pumpkin with the hint of allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon  makes it a "seasonal" cookie in that I only eat it in the autumn.

I tried many recipes but they weren't of the cake-like consistency that this version turns out.  It's like a firmer pumpkin muffin.  Perfect for a fall afternoon tea break.

Pumpkin Nut & Chip Cookies

4 oz unsalted butter, softened
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1 cup canned organic pumpkin
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 1/2 cups flour, all purpose
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon salt

3 tspns pumpkin pie spice
1 1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup walnuts, chopped
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Cream softened butter and sugar with an electric hand mixer. Beat in, one at a time, pumpkin, egg and vanilla and beat until smooth.

In another bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, pumpkin pie spice and cinnamon together; combine this bowl of ingredients into the into bowl containing pumpkin batter. Stir in the nuts and chocolate chips.

Drop by tablespoons onto parchment lined cookie sheets and bake on center rack for 15-17 minutes.

Makes about 36 cookies.

Adapted from a recipe from the California Milk Advisory Board.

India Pale Ale

Last week, a friend and I found ourselves at the weekly microbrew tasting at the Jug Shop.  We tasted 7 releases that were special collaborations.  As the beer poured several guys kept were espousing about the history of I.P.A. (India Pale Ale).  No one seemed to know the full story. So I did some digging.

Imagine, if you will, a country, England, filled with people who love to drink fine ale. That country establishes one of the great naval forces of all time, and in so doing its leaders encounter many challenges. Not the least of which is the importance of keeping beer on hand for the navy sailors,  soldiers and colonists in settlements around the world.  Soon realizing that the porter ales didn't   travel well across the great ocean blue arriving sour and flat after time and shifts in temperature.

Enter, at the end of the 18th century, an enterprising brewer named George Hodgson, brewer at the Bow Brewery in East London, who was motivated to solve the problem. In doing so he invented a new style of beer--India Pale Ale--which is where it was its key destination for the Royal Empire.  His  approach included brewing it to a high alcohol level and using more hops than any previous beers. High hop levels can preserve a beer’s flavor in two ways: they have a limited ability to protect beer from spoilage by some microorganisms, and, more importantly, theirbitterness can mask stale flavors. While there is not enough alcohol in any beer to offer serious protection from microorganisms, having more of it will certainly not hurt.  So really the magic is the is in the hops.

According to Real Beer:

High hop levels can preserve a beer’s flavor in two ways: they have a limited ability to protect beer from spoilage by some microorganisms, and, more importantly, their bitterness can mask stale flavors. While the beer arriving in India would certainly have suffered from oxidative staling during the long voyage, it could still taste acceptable because of the masking effect of alcohol and hops.  Original English I.P.A.s were strong, very hoppy beers  weighing in at about 7-10% ABV. 

This new brew recipe began shipping during the 1790s as  Hodgson's India Ale. The drink is called pale ale because they were lighter in color than the popular brown ales, porters and stouts. These copper-colored, reddish-bronze beers were some of the the first beers in the world paler than the more commonly found black or brown.

Hodgson’s export beer was a success, and he worked hard to maintain his monopoly on the Indian beer trade. Eventually, other brewers, notably Bass and Allsop, managed to begin trading their own versions of I.P.A. in India, and some brewers began producing a somewhat more subtle version of I.P.A. for the domestic market. 

Today, in America, most I.P.A.s are dry-hopped adding a fresh aroma while removing the bitterness. It averages about 5-10% ABV

The brew tasting that brought this all up was the Schneider & Brooklyn Hopfen-Weisse collaboration, that tasted hoppy, zesty and well very refreshing. (Alc/Vol: 8.2%; IBU: 40) .  Very drinkable.

Bacon - Chinese Style

                

A few weekends ago, after leaving the SF Ferry Plaza Farmers Market I ended up being diverted through Russian Hill.  As I navigated the car over the hills I met up with a curiosity--a middle-aged Chinese woman tightening twine  off a wooden stick held up between two wooden chairs.  From his line hung long 7” to 10” slabs of meat.  I double-parked to take a closer look. 

 The basement level apartment was dark inside excepting for a shadow of movement.  I waved and out came a middle-aged woman with a warm face. It turned out to be Chinese bacon air-curing in the dry, winter sunlight. As good a place as any right outside her apartment door on the city sidewalk.  What I was able to piece together was that it was Lop Yuk or Chinese bacon.  Her mother made a new batch every six weeks or so.  “It’s much better and you save monies.” She said grinning. The simple recipe involves the belly cut of the pig treated with Chinese wine (shaoxing) soy sauce, brown sugar, and spices for seven to ten days or until it is hard.

 In order to use it in recipes it needs to be soaked for about 6 or 7 hours before being sliced, chopped and fried for use in recipes such as Chinese stir-fried greens or Chinese sticky rice.  I’ve also simply sautéed it and added it to scrambled eggs.

 Unfortunately the woman I chatted with said that she never made it herself as her mother “only” was the one to make it for the family.  She said, “someday! I watch very careful!”

Chinese Stir Fried Greens with Bacon
Adapted from The Bacon Cookbook by James Villas

 

3 oz. air-cured Chinese bacon, soaked in water at least 6 hours (rind removed), coarsely chopped

1 tblspn peanut oil

1 tblspn sesame oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

2 tspns salt

2 lbs Chinese shredded greens (e.g. bok choy, spinach)

3 tblspns chicken broth

 

In a large skilled fry the bacon over medium heat until crisps, drain on paper towels, and pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat.  Add the two types of oils to the bacon fat, increase the heat to high, and when just smoking, add the garlic and salt and stir fry for 15 seconds.  Add the greens and stir-fry until wilted, about 3-4 minutes.  Add the broth and bacon and stir-fry until the greens are still slightly crisp, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.

 

Serves 4

Beautiful Breads - Spicy White Pepper Jack Bread

               

The last four months have somewhat  erased any "regular routine" I thought I had.  After a few weeks restabilizing after India I took a 3-week trip to Boston to tend to family concerns. Now I'm back and although I started this post a few days ago I stopped when I heard the devasting news from Mumbai.  The new friends I made in Mumbai during my stay just a few weeks past are all  safe.  Needless to say it's left me a little tweaked and unsettled given that I sat in the lobby of the Taj--a maginficient old lady--just people watching and think how special Mumbai and its people really are. 

Image: Artist Unknown

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A few days ago anticipating leftovers I decided to try my hand once again with making filled breads.  I have had pretty good success over the years perfecting technique while making chocolate babka.  This is only made at the holidays elevating it's unique and special status to those that receive the tasty holiday gift.  Bread making, as much as everyone looks for a quick homemade route is time intensive.

However, my first attempt, about six months ago, with Cinnamon-Raisin Bread  from Margaux Sky's Beautiful Breads & Fabulous Fillings left my little cottage smoky and me fuming  angry to the point of tossing the whole lot--bread and pan out the door and into the bin followed by some cruse words.  You see, these breads are not for the meek.  I've been making bread for years. I go through cycles were I am experimenting with egg breads, sourdough starters and no-knead breads.  They are a serious but rewarding endeavor.  This particular cookbook has such strong components:  a creamy Viognier and pineapple sauce; coffee liqueur mushroom sauce and a quick honey-mustard-curry sauce.  Unfortunately it is just a tad weak on technique and the recipes are written loosely so this is not for anyone on their maiden voyage.  With these filled breads you need to prepare the fillings in advance of the bread.  The rising and kneading are relatively quick requiring two rises. 

Long before Oprah's name became synonymous with Ms. Sky's Curried Chicken Sandwich she ran a  popular San Luis Obispo sandwich shop. and that sandwich is now called the "O Special." The chicken-based filling is sandwiched between Spicy White Pepper-Jack Bread. This, I thought, would be an excellent compliment to a post-Thanksgiving turkey salad. 

The entire effort probably took about 4 hours. The curry sauce is really just a honey-mustard  with a ration of 2:1.  Next time I would decrease the amount of honey as it was a tad too sweet for me.  Also I might do a blend of Monterey jack and its zippy cousin--pepper Jack. I also used a yellow curry powder which I felt guilty about doing as my masala dabba sat there begging to be used from my travels to India.  Old habits die hard.   Also, what I can't figure out is Ms. Sky's portions there's no way the amount of curry sauce and jack cheese could be accommodated in this bread so I just did what I could.

The taste is good, especially when toasted and with the turkey salad and cranberry-quince chutney piled on top.    Also you would think Ms. Skye is a stock holder in Lawry's Lemon Pepper--it's used everywhere.  I forgot how tasty this blend actually is so it's back in the cupboard.

Next on the horizon is Peanut-Butter Fudge Bread.  The basic white bread is made and tucked in the fridge.  This weekend we'll see what lessons bloom from that effort.

Spicy White Pepper-Jack Bread

Makes 1 loaf - Adapted recipe from Beautiful Breads by Margaux Sky

Basic White Bread Dough (1/4 portion-see below)

2 tblspns olive oil

1 1/2 cups curry sauce (see below)

1 1/2 tblspns cayenne, 1 tblspn Lawry's lemon pepper, 1/4 tspn salt - Mix together

2 cups shreded Montery Jack cheese

1 egg

2 tablespons water

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Prepare the Basic White Dough.

Generously butter a 9-inch loaf pan.

Roll out  1/4 of the risen basic white dough into a 9" x 11" rectangle so that the long side is near you.

Spread the olive oil over the dough followed by the curry sauce.  Sprinkle the cayene-lemon pepper-salt blend over the curry sauce.  Sprinkle the cheese over the spcies.

Tightly roll the dough into a loaf, with the rolling action going away from your body. To hold in most of the filling, fold the outer edges of the dough in as you roll. When finished, pinch the seam together firmly.

Place the dough into the prepared loaf pan seam side down . Loosely cover with plastic wrap, place the pan in a warm, dry place and allow the dough to rise for 60 minutes.

Preheat over to 400 degrees. After rise bake for about 1 hour.  During the last 10 minutes of baking time sprinkle wome of the filing over the top of the loaf for color and taste.  Cool for 30 minutes before slicing.

Basic White Dough
Ingredients: Makes 4 loaves  (but I cut the portions below in half and had success)

·       2 tablespoons yeast

·       4 cups warm milk

·       4 cups half-and-half (I used whole milk instead)

·       1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, melted

·       1/2 cup powdered sugar

·       16 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting

·       3 1/2 tablespoons salt

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the milk and half-and-half. Let stand for 5 minutes, until the yeast is foamy. Add the butter and mix with a whisk. Add the powdered sugar and mix well to break up any clumps.

In a large bowl (or stand mixer bowl), combine the flour and salt. Slowly add the liquid mixture to the flour mixture and knead well. If you’re using a stand mixer, knead for 3 to 4 minutes. If you’re kneading by hand, knead for 4 to 7 minutes. Keep the dough moist for a soft, tender bread.

Place the kneaded dough in a generously buttered bowl, cover with a towel or loosely with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, dry place for 1 hour.

NOTE: {START THE FILLING}

Punch down the dough with your fist, and divide into 4 portions, one for each loaf.

Curry Sauce

1 1/2 cups honey

3/4 cup spicy mustard

1 tblspn Lawry's lemon pepper

1 tblspn curry powder

1/4 tspn salt

In a large bowl combine all ingredients and mix well.   Makes 2 cups--you only need 1 1/2 cups for the bread--there's extra if you want to warm it up and blend with your chicken or turkey.