February 18, 2005

Best Use of a Tortilla By now the whole world seems to know that the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmer's Market is the showplace of foods to visit. What many marketgoers and non-locals don't know is that one of the best single breakfasts to be had in the City is at Cocina Primavera. Owned by Karen Taylor, the canopied stand with the big yellow umbrella in front is your signal to yield for good traditional Mexican flavors. And the foundation of many of these breakfasts entrees--pork punuchos, juevos rancheros, shrimp toastados de ceviche, chilaquiles--are thick, homemade, and organic corn tortillas. These tortillas are the essence of freshness, tradition and downright great eats. A line begins to build around 10:15 and the wait is worthwhile. The tortillas are not pre-made. There's someone working with a bin of fresh masa, pinching out small balls of dough and patting out the tortillas and then cooking on the electric griddle. So yes while it would certainly save time for all to have a make-ahead reserve the owner has decided that flavor and quality is first. Last week I had an order of pork punuchos ($8). The breakfast was made up of two lightly fried tortillas stuffed with chorizo, beans and a sliced hard-boiled egg, all topped with a citrus spiced marinated pork, onions and chopped avocado. I also grabbed a freshly made jamaica (hibiscus flower) agua fresca. The portions are generous, the flavors bright, and overall it's a meal that would make your grandmother smile. The Sonoma-based Primavera offers...


what happens to the hole when the donut is gone?

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