World On A Plate

Masala Magic #2

I suppose there is some experiential time line for Western travellers as they move through their days in this country.  The initial shock, the chaotic confusion, the permanent haze that continues to linger on this day the start of day 6.  I am likened it now to stepping through the looking glass. 

What you see at first is poverty, dirty streets, garbage and a standard of cleanliness that changes the meaning of that word. But if you start to look past that and look at how people live you start to see something different.  And at the risk of romanticizing this all it's not all good believe me.  And these are the lessons that travel teaches us.

I am a Westerner.  I do know this but today I am  more aware of being so and what that means. My first night in India I saw an interview with Warren Buffet and Bill Gates (who could sleep).  Asked by an audience member what we can do to end poverty he replied:  "You were given two gifts by God. You were born in the West and you were born with intellect.  Use both of those."

Wrestling with my conscience, my guilt and my privilege is a minute by minute task.  And while I can't change the state of the world I can offer grace and gratitude as I meet others in this country.  I travel the world to learn about culture, place and history. The gift is that as I do this I learn about myself and who I am--the good, the bad, the ugly.  Hey I'm not perfect but I can change.

So two days ago when we were at the banana auction I was given my first gift.  The group of 15 of us were in the interior market.  The market is organized chaos.  It is loud, hot, sticky and smelly. Men are bee-lining for delivery destinations with burlap-tied bundle of cauliflower, bananas, and apples on their heads.  We tasted the small, sweet finger bananas that Kerala is know for and frankly make  my daily Cavendish look mealy.  Taxi drivers hang these bananas from the passenger side of front seat and feed on them during long shifts.  Efficient, eh?

The group was causing a stir.  Most think we are European and then are surprised when we say "United States." I think they don't see a lot of our type.  I was in the middle of the group and then well I turned to someone behind me and well they weren't there. In a second I was completely alone in this market.  I knew this would happen sooner or later.  On. my. own. in. India. with. no. way. to. blend. in.  And then something happened. I told myself that you make of it what you create.  I went to my Zen-base. Hold no judgment.  People are people and at the heart want to be kind. 

I started to nod and gently smile.  One banana seller stretched out his hand and yelled "HELLO." I shook his hand.  As I moved along another man had stepped out from his stall to take a look at the spectacle.  He smiled asked me to take his picture and gave me a banana.  I felt like I was on parade.  I started taking others photos and decided to show them their image on the back of the camera.  The laughed, called over others and pointed shyly at their images.

I was "lost" for 15 minutes.  Nothing really.  I'm as much the spectator as the spectacle. 

Random Thoughts

No photos, this computer at the hotel is pieced together and USB ports aren't working.  I nearly rolled down a tiered tea plantation yesterday.  Religion is so predominant here. Wild jasmine is more heady than what we know in the states.  Fresh wild black pepper is vibrant and dances on the tongue.  I found my masala dabba.  I have problems negotiating in this culture--I do it but don't go to the haggle stage. Really the pashmina was US$2.30.  Today we tour a spice plantation--as they say here cardamom is queen and pepper is king.

It's August 14th here.  HAPPY BIRTHDAY DADDY-O!

Masala Magic #1

Stepping off the plane from the West to the East is not as easy as I thought.  Delhi International will shaken you awake.  Even with eyes wide open and all the preparation that you think you've done to anticipate what you'll see and experience nothing will knock the Western orientation like 90% humidity and what I call Delhi Dizziness. You consider yourself an informed, well-read citizen of the world.  But once you travel outside of Europe your world changes.  And well I don't believe there have been a lot of solo Western red-headed women in these parts.  In my mind overcoming the Delhi airport, securing a taxi to the hotel represented my first test of cultural integration. 

Fast forward two days, a 10-person check-in, a dozen wandering cows and 1 working elephant moving trees and rocks and I am in Kerala with the culinary tour.  It's late Monday night and the day has been filled with many scents, sounds and sites.  Today in Cochin, the port city of Kerala we spent taking a handful of must-dos: JewTown, St. Thomas, and the Chinese Fishing Nets.  Two unexpected detours held the best surprises. 

               

One was the dried ginger auction house where these men, who spend their days breathing the most gingery-citrus fragrant air tried to convince me in their local dialect that the dried ginger was good to smoke.  Perhaps it was my overzealous breathing (really it should be bottled!).  The ginger is air and sun-dried and sold at auction for use in tea and in medicine.

The other was lunch.  The group of 14 who comprise this culinary tour come from many different experiences and geographies.  Lunch and the afternoon was open for whatever came our way.  Fortunately for me Alam, a Vietnamese-Indian cookery instructor and personality in India was focused on getting us the freshest seafood and have it prepared nearby.  Just past the Chinese Fishing Nets, which everyone says you can't miss--and while the whole counterbalance thing is interesting--it is a bit of a smell, past it's prime place, "it's mostly for the tourists now." said our guide. The stray cats were quite content.

                  

There are many day boat fisherman who sell their morning catch to locals and tourists.  What was terrific was that not only does Alam speak the local dialect she knows the culture of negotiation in this country.  It let me tell you in just 3 days I have decided that there is no need for any more "How to Negotiate Anything" books needed.  Just put yourself in the middle of a market, in front of a currency stand, or try hiring a taxi.  EVERTYTHING, is a discussion that should preferably involve more than two people (see above--10 front desk staffers to check me in!).  After paying for the largest-I've-ever-seen-in-my-life-prawns (above) and two King Fish a few of us took off after one of the runners, presumably there was a kitchen and a restaurant somewhere.  After losing everyone for a minute, Mike, who works as the Asian Culinary Director at CIA, waved me over to some stairs and we followed the boys upstairs into the kitchen. 

There's still more to share from today such as the 5-course dinner at a local couple's home (more later!). Tomorrow, it's off to a tea plantation and some insight into chai.

So while I could write more here about the regional differences of dosas (crispy ones are distinct to Chennai), or my new found adoration of fresh curry leaves, or the permanently lingering curry scent on my fingertips, or the magic of a monsoon during an Auryvedic message and steam.  Instead, what's pulling at me in this land of wandering cows, goats and blaring horns after just 3 days.  This place is life changing.  I can't place my finger on it.  Something to do with seeing the world through different eyes, something about the huge, broad smiles that light up a room, or the billow of a sari scarf as she ducks under a banyan tree for shade, something. I just don't know yet, but there's days and nights ahead to experience it.

American Masala

               

I leave in 3 days for India. The task at hand for the last few  months has been to build a foundation in the essentials of Indian cookery. (Note to self: you seem to be adopting a distinctly British orientation to your spellings and vocabulary.)  In my research, and additions to my cookbook library, is American Masala by Suvir Saran. Also the author of Indian Home Cooking Chef Saran is co-executive chef at the 2007 1* Michelin restaurant Dévi in New York. 

The two cookbooks are approachable, fun and more than likely if you cook on a fairly regular basis your spice pantry will suffice. American Masala isn't about traditional Indian food—it's about adding new flavors to the great American melting pot, using spices to liven up the old standbys—from meatloaf to macaroni and cheese—and enjoying dishes that are exciting and diverse yet as familiar as your own mom's cooking.  It's a fresh take on contemporary Indian cuisine. 

Sambhaar is a spice blend that is the southern Indian equivalent to Garam Masala, a spice blend used often in northern India, which is to herbes de Provence or Chinese five-spice powder-- a foundational, essence of the cuisine spice blend.  The nutty flavor of a sambhaar comes from the addition of channa dal (yellow split peas) and urad dal (small white lentils).  If you are unfamiliar with the Indian cooking, you may think this  blend is bitter tasting.  If making it at home, and you want a more traditional taste--double the amount of fenugreek seeds.   I have found over the last few months that preparing these blends in generous portions allows for quick prep during the week.

Chef Saran seems to be somewhat less strict than his peer Floyd Cardoz of Tabla when it comes to curry powder.  He taught a session at the Gourmet Institute two years ago and what I vividly recall was his distaste over curry powder.  While I understand the plea if it means making the dish or not after work or when pinched for time well he's all about eating at home.

Other recipes that were tasty include the very quick Double-Basil Mussels with pasta shells--double basil as the herb is added twice in a tempering oil method--a central technique in Indian cooking which adds depth and intensifies the ingredients' flavors. And once it gets cooler Tamarid-Glazed Meat Loaf takes a standard America comfort food in another direction.

Stock Image: Goa coast, India

Goan-Syle Shrimp Curry

Serves 8

For the marinade

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice (from about 1/2 lemon)
• 1 pound large or extra-large shrimp, peeled and deveined

For the sauce

• 1 cup water
• 1/4 cup canola oil
• 24 curry leaves, roughly torn (optional)
• 4 dried red chiles
• 1 teaspoon ground peppercorns
• A 3-inch piece ginger, peeled and minced
• 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
• 2 teaspoons ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric
• 2 cups canned chopped tomatoes
• 1 teaspoon Sambhaar, or 1/2 teaspoon curry powder
• 1 1/2 cups coconut milk
• 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro

To make the marinade, place all of the ingredients in a gallon-sized resealable plastic bag. Add the shrimp, toss to coat, and refrigerate.

Set 1/2 cup of water next to the stovetop. Heat the oil with the curry leaves (if using) and chiles in a medium pot over medium-high heat until the curry leaves start to sizzle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the ground peppercorns and cook for 1 minute longer. Stir in the ginger, onion, and salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion is browned, about 8 minutes, sprinkling with water and stirring whenever the onion and ginger begin to stick to the bottom of the pot.

Add the garlic, coriander, and turmeric and cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the tomatoes to the pot. Cook, stirring and scraping the browned bits up from the sides and bottom of the pot, for 1 minute. Increase the heat to medium-high and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in the Sambhaar (see below) and cook for 1 minute, and then pour in the coconut milk and 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil and add the shrimp and any accumulated juices. Bring to a simmer and cook until the shrimp are curled and opaque, about 2 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and serve.

Sambhaar (makes about 3/4 cup)

• 3 dried red chiles
• 2 tablespoons coriander seeds
• 2 tablespoons mustard seeds
• 1 tablespoon cumin seeds
• 1 tablespoon white lentils (urad dal)
• 1 tablespoon yellow split peas (channa dal)
• 2 teaspoons fenugreek seeds
• 2 teaspoons ground peppercorns
• 40 curry leaves (optional)

Place all of the spices in a medium skillet over medium-high heat. Toast until the mustard seeds begin to pop and the skillet starts to smoke, stirring often, 3 1/2 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a spice grinder or coffee mill and grind until powder fine. Store in an airtight glass jar for up to 4 months.

The Mystery of Chai

               

Hello!  My journey to India is nearing and its time to get all my learnings and tastes on the food culture together.  I will be starting in Kerala and after a time journeying north to Delhi, Agar (of course) and Jaipur.  I will then conclude the trip in Bombay Mumbai (showing my age!) hopefully with a Bollywood glamour.  I've been reading all types of books--tour, cookery and history.  I need to remind myself that this is just the start as there are thousands of years of history and as many tastes from this incredible land.

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Most of us at some point along the coffee road experiment with a chai.  Or as we say here in the states chai tea--which is a blend of black tea that is more steamed milk than tea, honey, and a "masala" of spices which vary from city to city and home to home.

Turns out that chai is a generic term for "tea" in many other Eastern languages, including Arabic, Persian, Kurdish, Urdu and Swahili, as well as in such non-Eastern languages as Greek (τσάι), Albanian (qaj), Russian (чай), Serbian (чај) or Slovak (čaj).Various forms of tea are available in India, the most famous being masala chai, masala being the pan-Indian, particularly North and East Indian word for spice, and the spice mixture is sold as chai masala. In India, chai is more popular than coffee and is offered on trains, and street vendors called chai wallahs. 

Pronounced like the ‘ch’ in chocolate and rhyming with "sky’" the food lore is that masala chai dates back to over 5000 years ago when the King of Siam created an herbal version for his court.  However, its history is probably  more  closely connected to the Hindu healing practice of Ayurvedic remedies where it is considered to be a cleansing and invigorating dose for minor ailments.

Preparations vary with proportions of spices, tea, sweetener and milk varying from region to region and even among families. Often the  family chai recipe is handed down through the generations. Some boil the tea, spices and milk; some never boil. Boiling verses adding the milk and spices to hot tea produces a different taste and character to the finished chai.

The combination of  spices and herbs used all add their own health benefits to the combination. Tea leaves provide antioxidants which are known to fight cancer-causing cells, lower cholesterol levels and reduce blood pressure. Cloves invigorate and help generate heat in the body, making them useful during the cold and flu season. Ginger strengthens and heals the digestive and respiratory systems, fight off colds and flu, removes congestion, sooths sore throats, and relieves body aches. Cinnamon acts as a stimulant to the other herbs and spices enabling them to work faster. Black pepper adds warmth to the body. Cardamom stimulates the mind and gives clarity. Fennel seed calms the digestive system. Nutmeg adds a rich flavor to the blend. Other spices include carob, vanilla and licorice; although not in the traditional recipes.

You won't find the teapots of Britain  but instead unglazed terra cotta pots or saucers called "kullarhs," unglazed pots that impart an earthy flavor to the chai. Part of this "chai ritual" involves smashing the pots after drinking.

Today the taste of chai has inspired many recipes--a taste of the unusual.  And remember just call it chai.

A few weeks ago when it hit 95 degrees and all of us in San Francisco started to melt (really we have few places with A/C to retreat to!) I experimented with my standard chocolate sorbet recipe and married the chocolate with a chai base.  I found it had many healing properties.

Chai Chocolate Sorbet

Ingredients

3 1/2 cups chai tea (loose or bags)

1/4 cup sugar

8 oz. chopped bittersweet chocolate (such as Valhrona)

3/4 cup half & half

1 1/2 teaspoon fresh pressed ginger (you'll use the "juice")

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Instructions

In a 4 quart pot over high heat, stir chai tea and sugar until it boils.  Remove from heat. Whisk in chocolate, cover pot and let stand for 10 minutes allowing the chocolate to melt.  Uncover and whisk to blend.  Pour in half & half and the remaining spices and ginger juice.. Cover and chill for 4 hours or make 1 day ahead.

Freeze in an ice cream maker following your brand's instructions.  Transfer sorbet to an airtight container and freeze until firm, about 3 hours.

Summertime Eats with a Flair

               

This weekend marks the official launch of grilling and que'ing season.  As the weekend unwinds there will be bags of briquettes and tanks of fuel  emptied.  While you may be tempted to start with the sausage, foot long dogs and burgers I encourage you as you walk to that grill in that backyard, patio, fire escape or city park with a copy of Grilled Pizzas & Piadinas.   This collection of sweet and savory pizzas, crispy piadinas (flat bread sandwiches) and salads goes beyond the expected.

Craig Priebe, a man "obsessed with grilled pizza", is an executive chef at Henry Crown & Company and his co-writer Dianne Jacob have pulled together 75 recipes that will inspire, What's great about this book , aside from all the photos and compact size) is that there are shortcuts.  Don't have access to outdoor grill? There is info and images of the indoor grill options. Don't want to make dough from scratch? Go to Trader Joe's they make an excellent pizza dough.  There's tips all through the 192-pages.

Priebe gives us such creativity in each recipe:  the Gamberian (Sautéed shrimp with pesto and tomato) the pie awarded Best International Pizza of the Year, the Asparago (Asparagus with pesto, pine nuts, and Brie), Thai Pong Gari (curried chicken with peanut sauce and salad) and the San Franciscan (crab with orange and beet salad. New to me are piadinas (pee-yah-DEEN-ahs), a grilled flat bread.  Italians have an expression, "Ogni donna fa la piadina a modo suo." Every woman makes Piadina in her own special way."  Here we have a Piadina Dolce e Salato (Soppressata with Parmesan crisps and honey), the PAT Piadina (pancetta, argula and tomato) and a classic combination--Piadina Neapolitan (grilled cheese with tomato and basil) or Piadina Rosti (roasted pears, mascarpone, and honey).  There's also a dessert section that includes variations on churros, apple tarts and banana split. 

Many of the savory pizzas and piadinas start with Herbed Grill Oil which is simply made by combining ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, 1 small minced clove garlic, ½ teaspoon dried oregano, ½ teaspoon dried thyme and ½ teaspoon dried basil.  After mixing well,  refrigerate.   What's great about this book is the sense of calm and ease that permeates this book.  Did the oil solidify?  Hey, "take it out a few minutes early or microwave it at 5-second intervals until it starts to liquefy."  This oil would be a great one just to have around for brushing on bread before grilling and then topping with some chopped heirloom tomatoes.

Salads are included to round out a complete meal.  Curried Carrot Raisin salad (carrot, jicama and apple in curry dressing) and a new twist to a classic the Grapefruit Caesar.  To serve up these salads as a main course there is a recipe included for what is called The Bakery Bowl,  which is simply a crispy pizza crust that's been baked over a bowl. Why haven't we seen this idea sooner!

So much punch in this little cookbook that will keep you grilling long after summer is gone.

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Craig Priebe will be at Macy's San Francisco on June 25 at 6pm  for a demonstration and signing.

Craig Priebe's How to Grill Pizza

S'more Pizza recipe

Winter Sunshine

               

I got the blues thinking of the future, so I left off and made some marmalade. It's amazing how it cheers one up to shred oranges and scrub the floor.

~D.H. Lawrence

I love citrus. A large bright family that includes sweet and sour oranges, lemons, limes, citrons, pomelos, grapefruit, tangerines, clementines (Pixies!) and kumquats (ok technically not but we all think it.) Is there any other fruit that can make you feel so happy? Is there another that can come along and enliven a winter dish of beets or simple pasta.

Over the past month I was lucky enough to receive generous harvests from a friend's backyard "orchard."  Darn those were good.  Eating them out of hand, fresh squeeze o.j. and then this cake that I made was the perfect compliment to an Easter dinner.

It's such a simple and efficient recipe using every part of the orange--peel, pith, and flesh and when all is done there is just a hint of almond carried through the very moist and dense cake. Weeks after baking this cake for Easter dinner I learned that it's very close in composition to a recipe from Claudia Rosen and Nigella Lawson.

What's even better than the cake is the compote--really a quick route to homemade marmalade.  And really what is marmalade but jam with the peel. Ok that's a bit offhand but for those that like the bright taste of orange on their toast or crumpets this part of the recipe is worth holding on to--and I promise it won't be around long enough for it to spoil.

Orange Almond Cake

Adapted from a Martha Stewart recipe. And don't we all know her recipes are thorough... follow this version you will have success.  Let's just say her recipes assume a generous base of experience by the baker.

Ingredients

6 navel or other sweet oranges

Unsalted butter, room temperature, for pan

1/2 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for pan

1 3/4 cups finely ground blanched almonds (about 6 ounces)

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 large eggs

2 cups sugar

Instructions

Place whole unpeeled oranges in a large pot and cover with cold water. Over high heat bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer gently for 2 hours. Drain off the water and set the oranges aside to cool.

A few hours later:

Preheat over to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a 9" springform pan.  Cut the cooled oranges in half; remove any seeds. Place 7 halves into a food processor and pulse until almost pureed but still a little chunky.  There should be about 3 cups.

In a small bowl whisk the ground almonds, flour, baking powder and salt together.  In an electric mixer bowl with the whisk attachment beat the eggs with 1 cup sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy.  Stir in orange puree until just combined.  Stir in flour mixture.   Pour into prepared springform pan.  Bake for about 1 hour or until a knife comes out clean from the center.  Cool completely.

Prepare orange marmalade compote:

Chop the remaining 5 orange halves into 1/2" pieces. Place in bowl.  In a medium sized saucepan combine remaining cup sugar with 3/4 cup water.  Bring to a boil until sugar is dissolved.

Add the chopped oranges and reduce heat to medium.  Simmer this mixture gently until the liquid has evaporated and thickens into a syrup about 25 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool.

To serve:

arrange chopped oranges and pour any remaining syrup over top of cake. Cut into wedges. Can be stored up to two days in the refrigerator.

Spring Supper

               

Last Sunday in the early morning spring drizzle I got myself over to the farmers market.  The offerings are just beginning to change over to spring yield.  Unfortunately there were no early English peas to be found just now which I will just need to be a little more patient.  I had this idea of a dish that will remain tucked away until nature is ready. What was in abundance was citrus, radish, asparagus and green onions.  And that, as we all know, is what you do when you frequent the farmers market.  You go with what nature provides as she knows best.

Interesting little thing I learned at the market about asparagus is that the "jumbo" variety is produced from a younger plant than the pencil-thin kind.  Asparagus from the Delta region has been with us for the last 6 weeks and will be around for a quite a bit longer  so here are a few other musings to consider:

Lemon-pepper fettuccine with asparagus and shrimp

Asparagus with Brown Butter-Basted Egg for One

Mollie Katzen's Glazed asparagus with  pomegranate-lime glaze

To prepare the asparagus check out The Kitchen's primer.

Asparagus Salad with Beans and Feta

This dish is super easy to prepare.  I use a small hand mandoline to make quick work of the radishes.

Ingredients

3 cups (1-inch) diagonally cut asparagus (after prepped)

1 cup canned cannellini beans or other white beans, rinsed and drained

1/2 cup thinly sliced radishes

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 tablespoons minced green onions

2 teaspoons fresh orange juice

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Preparation

Steam the asparagus, covered, 3 minutes or until crisp-tender. Rinse asparagus with cold water, and drain. Combine asparagus and next 4 ingredients (asparagus through onions) in a large bowl.

Prepare the dressing by combining the juice and remaining ingredients in a small bowl and whisk together. Pour over asparagus mixture; toss gently to coat.

Yields 4 one-cup servings.

Om Shanti Om!

               

Yes. Yes. Over here. My oh my. I have been absent haven't I? Well from here, not from life nor kitchen.  Two months have rolled on by.  Needless to say I am becoming consistently absent.   How do people do this whole thing while holding down a full time job?  Is anyone else managing a team? a line of business? holding down a bit of a social calendar?! Enough whining!

More or less what's passed since I was last here is that that issue #2 of Traveler has been released.  We affectionately call this issue Hula Baby! Isn't that just the most adorable photo? Before I get those comments  that seem to follow when people see this cover is that issue #3 will not feature a back side.  Over 32-pages Hawaii, Costa Rica, a Kenyan safari and volunteering while on vacation are all vividly illustrated.  Each issue--3 and 4 are closing or in development as I write--keeps getting better and better.  Although the process has gotten easier each issue is an endeavor.  I really like the work  as it is rewarding and challenging in equal weight. 

               

So all this marketing of travel has pushed me to make a decision about my summer vacation.  So being of sound culinary mind and desire I have decided to journey to Kerala for a culinary tour. India.  Lash Pash eh?!  My interest in the culture of India started a few years ago with the discovery of Bollywood at the annual SF Asian Film Festival.  This  moved into a natural and growing interest and exploration of the food of India.  I love Bollywood.  There I've said it. At this year's festival the Bollywood film Om Shanti Om directed by Farah Khan and starring Shahrukh Khan was shown. If you haven't experienced Bollywood you are missing something special.  I spent 9 plus hours watching three films on one day during this year's festival.  The third film of the day began at 8:45 pm and at 12:30 am, on a Sunday, the sidewalk outside the Castro was alive with laughing and impromtu dancing.  This film is lash pash (fantastic).  Drama, comedy, singing, dancing---it has everything. 

Now it's a masala of blogs, cookbooks, travel guides and podcasts related to the language, food, music  and movies as I prepare for the trip in August.  Three weeks in Southern India. Visiting a coconut farm, a tea plantation, home cooking lessons, a spice auction and somewhere along the way I hope to end up on a beach somewhere. But now there's so much to learn, to taste, to understand.  So over the next few months as Iaccelerate and build my fundamentals I will share those posts with you.  There's quite a few good books that I'm mid-way through including Curry - A Tale of Cooks & Conquerors and Eating India that are not only excellent primers on Indian cuisine but also of a crash course in political history.  If anyone has tips, suggestions related to understanding the food of Southern India or places not to be missed please--do let me know.

The Roving Eater - Vietnam

                               

Many thousands of years ago there was a king with 24 sons.  And so it was, that he wanted to see which of his sons was best suited to step into the role.   In order to be happy and peaceful in retirement, he had after all defeated the Chinese Invaders, he sent each prince set out on a journey to every corner of the kingdom to find the most exotic, unusual, and far-fetched foods. Upon their return he would select the best for his kingdom and the chosen son would become king.

One son who was shy and quiet and without much means to travel far and wide fell asleep after thinking of the many ways he could possibly make his father happy again at which time he had a visit from a genie:

In this dream an old man with white-silvered hairs approached him and said: "Your devout and caring has touched my heart very deeply. You truly deserved the royal throne of your father. You don't have to go anywhere to find foods. It is just a waste of time and money. Of all the foods, rice is the most precious and valuable of all, yet very abundant. You find anywhere in your father's kingdom. Cook it very thoroughly then mould it into a round rice cake, and call it Banh Day. This will symbolize the sky you live under. Then do the same for the square rice cake. Stuff cooked bean paste and ground meat in the middle of the square rice cake and call it Banh Chung. This will symbolize the earth. Present these cake to your father as offerrings to your ancestors."  With a whisper the Fairy disappeared.

With an endorsement like it won't surprise you to learn that upon tasting his son's banh chung the king was ecstatic and proclaimed him king.

Today the rich tasting treat possesses a well-seasoned and savory filling of mung bean paste and small bits of pork meat pressed between layers of glutinous rice.  Today the sticky rice cake known as Banh Chung is a Vietnamese traditional dish found at Tet, the Vietnamese New Year which in 2008 falls on 7 February.  These treats are often found on most New Year celebration tables and are commonly placed on ancestors' worship altars.  Preparation begins several days before  the passing year closes whereupon the women of the family gather to prepare glutinous rice, pork meat and green bean paste.  It is then wrapped in a square of rush leaves which imparts a green color to the rice after nearly 10 hours of boiling.  Rice is soaked for a day, the pork meat retains it's skin and fat; the green beans typically of uniform size and the rush leaves cut fresh, the bamboo tying strings measured and cut. They have a long cooking period and can either be eaten warm or at room temperature.  Friends at work tell me they also can be fried up making for a crispy pancake treat. Needless to say this is certainly not a last minute effort!

As the dream symbolism foretold, the square shape of the cake represents thankfulness for the great abundance of the Earth, [the Vietnamese at that time assumed the earth was square], which supplied nutritious food throughout the four seasons of the year.  The leaves wrapped round the square cake denoting parental protection.

In the central and southern parts of the country this cake is called banh u. The interior recipe is the same, but the package is intricately folded into a little pyramid. You can often see these placed on family altars, especially in farm villages, where they honor "the soul of the rice."

Today banh chung are sold at markets and delis.  I've included the recipe here if for no other reason than to have a shared appreciation for the amount of preparation work entailed and for the     cultural tradition. I typically find mine in one of the many Asian markets in San Francisco.  An Tet!

                

Bahn Chung

Tet Sticky Rice Cake

Adapted from Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table, Mai Plam

1 3/4 cups sticky (glutinous) rice, preferably long-grain
1 drop of green food coloring (optional)
1/4 cup dried split mung beans
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons chopped shallots
1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
5 ounces pork shoulder or butt, cut into 1/4-inch-thick chunks
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 (14" x 16") sheets plastic wrap plus extra
1 (14" x 16") sheet aluminum foil
2 (14" x 14") pieces banana leaf

Place the sticky rice in a large bowl and cover it with 3 inches of water. Stir in the food coloring, if using, and let the rice soak overnight. (Once soaked, the rice will double to about 4 cups.) In a separate bowl, soak the mung beans for at least 4 hours. Drain both just before using and set aside in separate bowls. Add the salt to the rice and stir to blend.

Combine the shallots, fish sauce, black pepper and pork pieces and let marinate for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil in a frying pan over moderate heat. Add the pork pieces and all the marinade and stir just until the meat is brown around the edges, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside.

Using a steamer basket, steam the mung beans until they are soft, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

To make the packet, neatly lay down the wrappers in this order: 1 sheet of plastic wrap (leave the other for use later), the aluminum foil, 2 sheets banana leaves (one perpendicular to the other). Place one cup of the rice in the center of the banana leaf, spreading it to cover a 5-inch square. Place half of the mung beans on top, then add the pork pieces. Cover with the remaining mung beans and place 1 cup of rice on top. Bring the narrow sides of the wrappers together. Fold the gathered edges over twice, then flatten against the packet. (You now have two open ends.) Fold one end over and hold the packet upright. Add half of the remaining rice, tapping it and pushing it down so the packet will be an even square. Fold the end over and repeat on the other side.

Place the packet with the folded sides down in the center of the remaining plastic sheet. Wrap tightly so that water will not seep into the packet during cooking.

Tightly tie the packet with two parallel strings in both directions (as in a tic-tac-toe pattern).

Fill a large stockpot with water. Add the packet and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Place a colander or something heavy on top of the packet to keep it submerged in the water. Cook uncovered until done, about 6 hours, adding more water if necessary. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool for 1 hour.

To serve, cut the packet (without unwrapping) into 1/2-inch slices. Remove the wrapping and arrange the slices on a serving plate. Serve warm or at room temperature. If wrapped in plastic and refrigerated, the cake will keep for 1 week.

Cooking time can be reduced to roughly four hours by precooking the rice, toasting the soaked, and drained rice in a nonstick pan over medium heat until it is dry and looks opaque.

Resources:

Link to step-by-step assembly from Andrea Nguyen's Viet World Kitchen (.pdf)

Video of assembly process via YouTube

Gung Hay Fat Choy from 01/30/06

Launching in the New Year

               

Ultimately, I rationalize to myself, this blog is for me -- a way of capturing crumbs and other food-related jetsam.  Over the last 3 1/2 years I've gone from being prolific to occasional to quiet.  That last bit snuck up on me, one never intends to go quiet.  Distracted with life's comings and goings. It's been two months since I was last here.  And for those of you near and far who do send me emails about my whereabouts I'll do my best to go beyond the "I'm busy."

Mainly I have been dealing with the ups and downs of life.  Family, work and personal projects. I've been on the road these last six months.  I've become such a road warrior that I'm seriously considering that my next bed should most definitely be a Heavenly Bed.  Dreamy.  I also drove over the Golden Gate Bridge with 50+ mph winds during Storm 2008.  That was quite possibly the most idiotic thing I may have ever done.  My new IPOD took a walk in Florida at a conference, I danced with a Cruella de Ville and drove up and down the coast again stopping with a long-time friend at my favorite taco stand in King City.

One of those categories, work, has some of the big news that I'd like to share.  After 9 months of strategizing, selling-in and then building and creating,  I have launched a travel magazine!  This is honestly the largest professional endeavor that I have ever taken on.  It's also something that many years back, in journalism school, I envisioned myself doing.  It's huge. It's trying. And frankly, should not be taken on casually.  I have a deeper respect now for all publication editors out there.  The ability to put out a publication, regardless of the frequency (weekly editors must live on a rotational diet of ibuprofen, caffeine and cigarettes!) is a feat in itself. Never mind that you need to continue to stay current , maintain a vision and constantly innovate so that readership is engaged and growing.   And if it was only an one-off effort.  The bi-monthly production cycle is such that while the main issue is primary the next two are also stirring.  And the released issue continues to breathe in the form of reader response and production process. 

So about the magazine, it's a motor club members-only who buy travel from us.   I'm managing a travel publication. Wow. How cool is that? Like I said it's not all  mai-tais and jetsetting.  Given that it's a marketing publication it's meant to do all those marketing things, such as raise awareness of international cruises, tours; educate readers around the fact that everyone should have a travel agent (really, don't just search TripAdvisor--ask someone you know and trust!); and finally move these products with sales. 

In the first issue we wrote about the Amalfi Coast, a New Zealand road trip, a culinary cruise with Gary Danko (he's going to the Med with us!) our partnership with UNESCO World Heritage (that was another exciting coup d'etat that I was part of!) and Montenegro.  The image above is of the cover of Issue #1.  The inside of the publication has a great fresh and approachable design. If you are a friend or a family member and would like a copy send me an email with your address. Our next issue is on traveling with your family. 

Well the rain continues to come this weekend so I'm planning on pulling together a few posts with recipes to share.  In the meanwhile check out this BBC link of art with food spectacular, eh?