World On A Plate

Spätzle a la Suppenküche

   

Willkommen to a new cooking frontier that has long stopped me cold. Spätzle.  Recently fate knocked on my door, when I was assigned this dish as my ticket in for a dinner gathering of food bloggers. Eek.

Long a comfort food in southern Germany Spätzle, it is a delicacy traditionally associated with the regional area of Swabia. In the northern part of the country you are more likely to find potatoes. Today this pasta, however,  is eaten all over Germany. Spätzle literally translated means "little sparrows" in the Southern dialect, it consists of tiny noodles or dumplings made of flour, eggs, water or milk, salt and occasionally nutmeg.  The measure of a quality tasting Spätzle, is found in the number of eggs used.

Maybe fear is too strong a word.  It is more of an equipment obstacle --- the single purpose utensil, a Spätzle press.  In the IBK I have a philosophy: in order to keep my sanity and efficiency in check all kitchen tools should have at least two, if not three, purposes.  The press is similar to a potato ricer but has larger and fewer holes.  The dough is extruded out and into simmering salted water. What else would you ever use that for?!

After reading many recipes of varying ratios of egg to flour I arrived at a recipe from Suppenküche a popular New German restaurant in San Francisco's Hayes Valley. I've tasted this pasta several times since its opening in 2003. The restaurant remains a favorite not only for it's unique contemporarizing quality but most likely due to its selection of beers.  As this recipe requires six eggs I knew it had to be good.

A reported 40,000 tons of Spätzle are produced in Germany each year. Of course, this figure does not include the many homemade batches of Spätzle everyday. And yes I can now see why it could and can be made every day. I used the colander to press the thick batter into the simmering water. Now that I have overcome this silly bit of intimidation preparing Käsespätzle  {Off the Broiler-instructional vlog} or maybe even that Charlie Trotter recipe, Rack of Lamb with Vegetable Ragout with Mustard Spätzle that now sounds more than within reach.

But the true test? There was hardly any noodles left after the 24 food pros and bloggers finished their goose dinner.

Suppenküche Spätzle

Adapted from Savoring San Francisco by Carolyn Miller & Sharon Smith

6 whole eggs
2 cups AP flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 to 3/4 cup water

Fill a lrage pot with water. Bring the water to a boil and salt liberally.

While the water comes to a boil prepare the batter.  In a medium-sized bowl beat the eggs lightly. In another bowl combine flour, salt and nutmeg. Gradually add the flour mix to the egg.  Add water spoon by spoon until batter is stiff but smooth.

Using a perforated pan or colander and the ball of your hand, push batter through holes into water that should simmer throughout the whole process, but not boil. You'll want to do this in 3 shifts.

For best results there should only be one layer of spätzle at a time in the cooking water. Stir the Spätzle with a spoon so that they do not stick together. When they rise to the top they are done. Sometimes this happens to quick, say 45 seconds. Depending on the size of your Spätzle you may need a minute or longer. It's very similar to cooking Italian pasta. Remove Spätzle from water with a perforated spoon and place in a bowl of iced water to ensure not to overcook the noodles.

To reheat, sauté in a little butter about two minutes; season with fresh chives. Serve.

Making Chocolate Whoopie

      

Growing up homemade whoopie pies were a treat.  From the vantage point of a 10-year old they seemed rather simple. Why didn't we have them more often? Well turns out that Mom just made them look that way.  What I didn't see was the amount of time it took to make the little cakes from scratch, wait for them to cool, whip up the filling and then assemble.  Efforts such as this are what make mothers "moms."

Traditionally made with a  fluffy vanilla-whipped filling surrounded by two round chocolate cakes these cookie-sandwiches are often said to be of northern New England or Amish-County Pennsylvania origin.  According to Nancy Baggett in her All American Cookie Book,  the treat has been traced back to the Depression era. Her source, Peter Schlichting of New Hampshire says that "the Berwick Cake Company, located it the Roxbury section of Boston...seems to have been the first t make them...a retired employee has recalled that the firm began whoopie-pie production in 1926." In fact if you grew up in New England or New York these may remind you of  a high-class Drake's Devil Dogs. 

I've made my mother's recipe several times but I'll be devil dogged if  I can find it in my IBC. So recalling the recipe from memory and flipping through a few cookbooks I determined that I was not going to use hydrogenated vegetable shortening. Well I did end up using it--a trans-fat free Crisco.  I also needed to mix it up with two different fillings, traditional vanilla and peanut butter (quelle surprise!).

The choice of cocoa powder is important here as the contrast between the filling and the cake creates a heightened, smoky, chocolaty taste.  Typically I have Dutch processed cocoa powder on hand.  Although I've tried many including Droste and Valrhona but my go-to is Pernigotti.  Keep in mind that Dutch-processed is treated with an alkali to neutralize its acids. Due to this it does not react with baking soda, so it must be used in recipes calling for baking powder. It has a reddish-brown color, mild flavor, and is easy to dissolve in liquids.

Chocolate Whoopie Pies

4 cups flour

2 tsp. baking soda

1 cup Dutch-processed cocoa

2 cups sugar

1 cup shortening

2 eggs

1 cup milk

1 cup warm water

2 tsp. vanilla extract

Instructions:  In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking soda, cocoa and salt.  Mix well and set aside.  In another bowl combine the sugar shortening and eggs. Beat 2 minutes.  Add the dry ingredients to the egg mixture. Now add the milk and warm water and beat for 2-3 minutes at medium speed. Add vanilla extract and beat again.  These "cakes" cook like cookies.  Drop by rounded tablespoon onto an non-stick cookie sheet.  Keeping uniformity is important. Bake for 10-12 minutes at 375 degrees until the center of the cookies spring back when lightly pressed.  Remove from cookie sheet and cool on a wire rack.

Assembly: Spread a generous amount of filling on the bottom of a completely cooled cookie. Top with another.

Notes on storage: I learned the hard way that these little cakes don't keep too long particularly if  you stack the unfilled cakes together. If you can't bake early in the day and fill them later on  you could assemble and in turn wrap them in plastic wrap.  They keep quite well in the fridge for several days in this method.

Vanilla Cream Filling

2 egg whites

2 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract

4 tblspns flour

4 tblspns milk

4 cups confectioner's sugar

1 1/2 cups vegetable shortening

Instructions: Beat the egg whites until stiff. Set aside.  Working quickly combine the other ingredients and beat several minutes at high speed.  Fold in the stiff egg whites

Peanut Butter Filling

2 tblspn unsalted butter

3/4 cup creamy peanut butter

3 1/2 cups confectioner's sugar

1/2 cup milk

Instructions: At medium speed mix the butter and peanut butter together. Add confectioner's sugar and milk. At high speed mix until well blended, light and fluffy.

 

Soup for a Cold Night

            

Without doubt one of the most frequently mentioned topics these days is the weather.  No, we are not a dull and polite crowd.  It is cold in the Bay Area.  Unseasonably cold, 10-20 degrees colder.  In fact they say in Marin that on Thursday the forecast of rain with 29 degree overnight temperatures may bring, yes, light snow. What??  So what's my answer?  Soup. Big bowls of one pot wonders to satisfy one or 12. 

And that's exactly what a a group of us did Saturday night, gather around a big soup or as the Italians say a minestrone.  And for as many Italian mamas there are there are recipes. Loosely define it's a hearty dish of broth with lots of ingredients  in particular pasta, beans and vegetables.  Not to confuse the definition but in Italian, there are three words for soup: zuppa, which is used in the sense of tomato soup, or fish soup; minestra, which is used in the sense of a more substantial soup such as a vegetable soup; and minestrone, which means a very substantial or large soup, though the meaning has now come to be associated with this particular dish.

The origins of the word fall from the Latin minestrare meaning to serve up or dish up.  A specialty from the Italian northwest region of Liguria there are many forms, typically with tomatoes beans, cabbage.  The beginnings of the dish are in cucina povera or rather peasant food.  As such though there is no defined recipe and why it is incredibly flexible to what you may have on hand or the time of the year.  In Italy soup is a first course.  Today given our changing diets and lifestyles many of us can easily serve this up as a complete meal, ideal given it's one-pot easy factor.

According to several discussion boards it has been suggested, if my translation holds that another meaning of in old Italian is Grandpa's Teeth, referring to a version that refers to yellow corn kernels floating in the soup look similar to the teeth of an old Italian man that have fallen out into the pot. 

Minestra per una Folla

Minestrone Soup for a Crowd

The potatoes in this dish add a nice creaminess to this version The secret however is a Parmesan rind that enriches the flavors. The next time I would add some corn and destemmed, chopped kale.

1 cup extra-virgin oil

1 medium leek, pale green and white parts, split, washed slicked 1/2" thick (roughly 2/3 cup)

1 small onion, cut into 1/2" pieces (1/2 cup)

2 carrots, peeled and chopped into 1/2" pieces (roughly 2/3 cup)

1 russet potato, peeled and also cut into 1/2" piece (about 3/4 cup)

6 large garlic cloves, minced

4 tbspns tomato paste

1 28-oz. can tomatoes, drained, roughly chopped

5 cups vegetable stock (or chicken)

5 cups water

1 rind of Parmigiana-Reggiano cheese

4 oz. grated Parmigiana Reggiano

1 12 oz box of medium size pasta

2 14oz. cans of cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

Place 1/2 cup of the olive oil In a large stockpot over high heat.  Add the leek, onion, carrots, potato, and minced garlic.  Cook without stirring for 4 minutes. Restrain yourself the oil and veggies need to brown.  That browning creates a necessary flavor component.  Set a timer if you must. After 4 minutes reduce heat to medium and stir occasionally until the edges of the vegetables have begun to turn golden.  Reduce the heat if the vegetables seem like they will burn.  This should take about 5-6 minutes.  Add the tomato paste and cook for another 2 minutes stirring regularly.  Add the tomatoes, stock, water and cheese rind and bring to a boil over high heat. 

Simmer for 35-45  minutes.  During this time the flavors will become more concentrated. Taste for seasoning.  You may need salt.  If you feel kicky add some red pepper or a dash or three of Cajun seasoning mix. People will say they don't like spicy but the subtle notes of red pepper really rounds out the flavor profile of this soup. At 40 minutes add the pasta and beans.  Cook the pasta per the box instructions.

To serve:  Into a soup bowl splash a bit of quality olive oil, ladle soup.  Drizzle with a generous serving of Parmesan cheese. 

Variations:  If you have pesto you can drizzle that on top of the soup instead of the cheese.

Image by Darrin Hoover

Midnight Cookies- Office Bake Off

                      

Icebox cookies are not new to me. But lately I feel as if I've discovered something new.  Most likely due to a small,  or if I'm honest, a galley kitchen in my new place I appreciate them more for the ease and simplicity. 

In the 1927 the first commercially available electric refrigerator for residential use was available from GE for $300. Most utility companies offered them to customers for $10 a month billed via their monthly statement. As part of the$1,000,000 marketing launch uses and recipes were developed.  The slice-and-bake icebox cookie was born. Most of the ingredients required for the many variations on this theme are on hand if you keep even the most basic pantry.Today they are so convenient that not having a log in the freezer is an oversight.

Yesterday the office holiday bake off was held.  I won first place and audience favorite for Midnight Cookies, one of my favorite and most requested cookies. Really how could I possibly lose? They are pure chocolate cookie with a crispy edge and a chewy center.  Previously I've written of a somewhat similar but (believe it or not) richer chocolate cookie, pastry chef Jacques Torres's Mudslides. 

Oh yes, while these took two top prizes another secret entry under a colleague's name won second. The Pistachio Cranberry  cookie can be found in the recent issue of Gourmet or online.

Midnight Cookies

I call these midnight cookies not only for their dark, deep color but also because they are the perfect treat to sneak as the clock points straight up.

1 pound bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter, cut into pieces

4 large eggs, at room temperature

1 ¾ cup sugar

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

2 cups chocolate chips

Yield 48-60 cookies

Melt the 1 pound of bittersweet chocolate and butter in a bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally.  Remove from the heat.

In a standing electric mixer, whip the eggs, sugar, and vanilla at high speed until a ribbon forms when you lift the beaters out of the liquid.  Then turn the speed to low and mix in the slightly cool chocolate (it’s important that the melted chocolate is not steaming hot.)

In a separate bowl, stir together the flour and baking powder.  Add to the batter.  Add the chocolate chips.  The batter will appear soft.  Place the whole bowl into the fridge until it is chilled but not stiff.  It should still be pliable. The batter should be able to hold its form somewhat.

Place a large sheet of wax paper down on the counter.  Pull the batter onto the wax paper and divide into roughly three equal pieces. If it’s not exact that’s perfectly fine.  Now take another sheet of wax paper and one of the three sections and roll it into 10” logs and 2” in diameter.  Shape and wrap the log with the wax paper; continue with the others. Ensure that the ends of the logs are covered so that they don’t dry out.  Place all three wax-wrapped logs into a big plastic bag and chill for at least 30-45 minutes or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Remove logs at least 15 minutes before going into oven.  With a knife—use a chopping knife-- as you need a clean swipe--cut the log  by ½” increments. Bake for 9-11 minutes. Here’s the tricky part you must remove them while they are a bit shiny as that makes the center chewy.  It’s a good idea to bake a few first as a trial run.

Note: The logs can be refrigerated for up to 1 week or frozen for up to 2 months. 

Jack o' All Squashes

               

When is a pumpkin a pumpkin and when is it not?  Or are they the same?  Pim wondered aloud here and as she prepared a beautiful French fall soup with potimarron.  Curiosity got the better of me (as it often does) as it seems that there are so many new varieties at the markets these days.

Part of the confusion can be cleared up with the definition, pumpkin really only means "large hard-skinned squash."  Beyond this the meaning is mostly arrived at by cultural usage of the term.  What is considered a pumpkin changes as you travel around the globe and also regionally. Here in the U.S. pumpkin typically refers to the rounded orange squash of any size that is carved for Halloween or pureed for Thanksgiving pie.  Bottom line...pumpkins are a type of winter squash.

I then began to wonder about the difference between summer and winter squashes.  After looking through a few gardening books,  I learned that summer squashes are eaten when the fruit is immature and the skin tender. On the other hand, winter squashes are allowed to mature. Usually these varieties are baked, as their flesh is typically hard and mild in flavor. 

Pumpkins are in the cucurbita family which includes squash and cucumbers. While there are many species of squash for this investigation we'll need to just leave that to the gardeners to sort out.  As a general rule the home chef can usually swap one for the other in recipes.   The chestnut-flavored potimarron Pim uses in her soup originated in China and is now widely used throughout France.  It's also known elsewhere as the Hokkaido squash.  Its skin is soft enough that it is doesn't need to be peeled.

Calabaza or Cuban Squash, Caribbean pumpkin or West Indian Pumpkin is raised in warmer climates and can be found year round.  It can be found freshly chopped and packaged in Latin markets as it is very difficult to chop. It is a central part of the of the Latin American diet.

Another commonly found squash variety is Kabocha, this is the Japanese word for squash which falls into the buttercup squash category.  Many recipes I found while researching, call for taking the typically dark green,  five pound-ish squash and removing the top to reveal the bright orange flesh, cleaning out the seeds and stuffing and baking  it with a mix of ground meat, onions, seasonings and dressing with grated cheese. Often in Japanese restaurants you'll find this as tempura.

Living solo, I like the Delicata or sweet potato squash. This type runs about 3 inches wide and 8 inches long with thin green stripes running lengthwise. It's size is perfect for one and ideal for baking or stuffing.

Back to the pumpkin.  Although native to the Americas, it has traveled around the world to become a staple in dishes as diverse as Asian porridge, East Indian curries, and Italian ravioli.  Today it is grown everywhere but Antartica. Early settlers of New England made pumpkin pie by filling a hollowed shell with milk, honey, and spices, and baking until done. Ninety-nine per cent of pumpkins are used for decoration. Which means that most of us reach for the can of pumpkin puree for our pies, breads and soups. The largest processor of pumpkins is Libby.  And while there is an unsubstantiated Internet rumour that canned pumpkin puree is really butternut squash according to the company their canned puree is made from Dickinson pumpkin, a sugar-pie variety. 

Cooking Guidelines

One pound of winter squash yields about 2 cups of cooked, mashed squash.

The Baker's Passport - Japan

               

Oh, where to start, in the past or in the present! At times during the development of this writing I became excited, enchanted and entangled in the world of Japanese desserts. From wagashi to mochi. So if I don't just start we'll get nowhere and we'll begin with today.  In researching this article, I learned that in the strict sense of Japanese tradition, there is no sweet course to a meal. It ends with rice, pickles and tea. Sweets are regulated and very sparingly, as an partner to tea. However the country does have another informal meal called oyatsu that commonly occurs at 3pm everyday.  Oyatsu consists of a drink, tea for adults and milk or a soft drink for the young ones, accompanied by a sweet or savory snack.

Some of my favorite Japanese snacks are Pocky, slim biscuit sticks with one end coated in chocolate.  There are many other flavors such as sesame, green tea and a dark chocolate one called Men's.  I've yet to figure out why that is.  A savory compliment to a cocktail wasabi green peas are a great alternative at your next party! And of course there's that late 20th creation mochi ice cream. These confection spheres are about as big as a ping pong ball with an outer rice shell surrounding ice cream.   And as recently as last week Japanese desserts are growing trend inNew York where Kyotofu opened last week offering Japanese-inspired Western-focused desserts such as  black sesame sweet tofu, warm chestnut mochi chocolate cake and sansho-pepper tofu cheesecake.

Kasutera, simple sponge cake, a popular specialty of Nagasaki.  Originally from Castilla region of Spain many cakes were brought to the country by Portugese missionaries through the port of Nagasaki during the 16th century.  According to history this cake was able to be preserved for a long time. In the Edo era, it was a sweet that was precious and was served for the envoys from Korea.  Over time the recipe was adapted to fit to the Japanese palate.

Today this sponge cake can be found at festivals, from street vendors and in local markets. It's a treat and a special commercial jingle sung by bears.

Kasutera is traditionally made of simple natural ingredients with the essence of honey as the most common. However, today there are many variations - - powdered green tea, cocoa, and brown sugar. A good pan de castilla is moist, has a very fine texture, and is very light. It should have a dark brown and sugary top and bottom - the sides are usually cut off, exposing the yellow crumb.

Kasutera Pan de Castilla Cooking for the American Table" by Susan Fuller Slack 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1/4 cup honey 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon orange extract 1/4 teaspoon salt 7 large eggs, separated 1 cup cake flour, sifted 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar 1 tablespoon green tea powder or unsweetened cocoa powder* (optional-if using omit the orange extract)

Instructions: Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Use parchment to line the bottom of a 10-inch tube pan, preferably with a removable bottom or 2 (8 x 4-inch) loaf pans. Grease the parchment. In a large bowl, whisk 1 cup sugar, honey, vanilla,  orange extract, and salt into egg yolks. Place bowl in a large pan of hot water. With an electric mixer, beat about 5 minutes on medium-high speed until pale yellow and doubled in volume. Gently fold in sifted flour. Using clean dry beaters beat the egg whites in a large bowl on low speed 1 minute, increasing speed to medium-high. When foamy, sprinkle in 1 tablespoon sugar and cream of tartar. Beat until stiff but not dry. With a spatula, fold the egg whites in three steps. Pour batter into pan. Tap gently on the counter to remove air bubbles. Bake on middle rack of oven 35-45 minutes or until golden brown.  Signs that the cake is near done will be the sides of the cake pulling away from the pan slightly; the top will be flat and will feel spongy when pressed with finger.   Remove from oven and cool 20 minutes. Carefully run a small knife between the edge of the cake and pan. Turn over pan and gently remove from pan. Remove parchment paper and cool completely. Serve or store airtight.

Día de Los Muertos

         

This is now the annual post for this holiday.   The image is one I took during a trip to Oaxaca during this festival period three years ago.  These handmade items are ornaments for the ritual bread made during this time. It's also the most requested image via Google Images. I'm certain that my photograph is being re-appropriated from here to Mexico.  Good spirit karma, perhaps.

Last year during my two week visit to Oaxaca for Día de Los Muertos the aroma of sweet bread gently woke me during my stay in Oaxaca City. The inn's neighbor was one of the largest family bakeries specializing in pan de muertos.

Día de Los Muertos, the Day of the Dead, is celebrated throughout Mexico on Nov. 1st and 2nd, with some activities beginning on the evening of Oct. 31. The first evening, (Nov. 1) is for remembering los angelitos (children) who have died; the second evening is dedicated to honoring adults.

According to Chloe Sayer, author of The Mexican Day of the Dead, the festival period is a confluence of the “conquest of what is now Mexico by the Spanish in the early sixteenth century fused” with “the Aztec idea that life is but a momentary dream and the medieval European notion of death as the great equalizer, stripping the vanities and pretensions of rich and poor alike.” I think it’s a wonderful celebration of life, food and an experience that everyone should have at least once in their lifetime.

Día de Los Muertos is what happens when a conquering people show up after 1,000 years of cultural ritual. Accommodations were required for the new house guests stuck on staying. It’s a complex mix of indigenous pre-Hispanic spiritualism and Roman Catholicism which was adopted after the Spanish conquest. Today it still is a celebratory and honored time throughout Mexico and in some parts of California and Arizona. I would also say one vast difference between the two holidays is that the Anglo-Saxon holiday of Halloween is all about the scary aspect of the dead and in Mexico the dead are remembered and their lives celebrated.

The influence of traditional Aztec beliefs of death and afterlife, can be seen everywhere during this time. Each region of Mexico has it’s own cultural practices. The state of Oaxaca (wha-HAH-kah) is one of the most popular destinations due to it’s rich traditions around the period. I’d like to think it’s because of the connection of the food, family, friends and tradition. It probably has more to do with Oaxaca’s central geography in Mexico leaving it to be a bit more rural and as a result less apt to be influence by outside influences.

Unfortunately, it was a bit disappointing to me while in Oaxaca to see the influence of the Halloween holiday—and not in a positive way. According to some reports this holiday was first celebrated in the late 1960s but became even more of a presence in the 1980s and particularly in the 1990s, after Mexico joined the United States and Canada in NAFTA.

The Aztecs believed that strong scents could lure the dead back to the land of the living and as a result strong scent of copal incense is used to help spirits find their way to this world. It hangs heavy in the air where ever you go--graveyards, markets, and homes--where ever there's an altar. Flowers adorning altars and tombstones symbolize the shortness of life. The traditional flower is the zempoalxochitl (literally "twenty flowers" in the Nahuatl language but commonly known as "the flower of the dead"), a type of marigold. Arranged on the altar they may also be found sprinkled from the dead’s gravesite to the home, creating a pathway. The pungent scent also helps the guide the souls.

During this time many Mexicans participate in masked processions, and build elaborate home altars covered with marigolds, candles, and photos. Ofrendas (offerings) of the deceased's favorite food and drink are put out. Families stay up all night awaiting the arrival of the masked muertos who arrive with a small brass band to raise the dead through dancing and a lot of mescal drinking along the way.

Along with remembrances and prayers for the deceased, it's also a time of rejoicing, a reunion for living family members who have come from afar and for those deceased, who presumably have traveled even farther.

Food traditions surrounding Día de las Muertos include bringing food and liquor to graveyard picnics, some bring along entire BBQ grills; placing photos of deceased loved ones, candles, incense, candied skulls and religious symbols on the tombstone and also on home altars.

Food and beverage offerings differ for children and adult spirits. Children are provided with fruits, tamales and sweets such as calaveritas de azúcar, candy and dulce de calabaza, or even a small pan de muerto. Beverages may include chocolate, atole and yes, even soft drinks.

Food offerings for adults tend to be spicier. Favorites are chicken or turkey mole, tamales, enchiladas or other foods the deceased was particularly fond of. Beverages include alcoholic mescal, pulque, beer, chocolate and coffee.

Water is always offered, on the altar, after all wouldn’t you be thirsty after a long trip?

One of the most important and commonly found foods during this time is the pan de muertos, (bread of the dead) a must as an ofrendas, at the cemetery or home altars. This sweet Mexican egg bread is baked beginning from mid-October to mid-November, specifically to celebrate the Day of the Dead.

The loaves of bread, weighing any where from 1 to 2 pounds, are shaped into large circular hojaldra (puffed bread). These are then decorated with bone-shaped pieces of the bread dough called huesitos (little bones). The bones are said to symbolize perpetual life. In some parts of Mexico the bread is decorated with sesame seeds; in Mexico City sugar is sprinkled on top.

Villagers in the more rural areas outside of Oaxaca City, will often bring a large sack of flour, dozens of eggs and the other necessary ingredients including embellishments, usually ovals with various faces painted on them (picture above), and take it all to the local baker for preparation and baking. Each loaf is said to represent an individual soul.

Now for the good and bad news. This bread is addictive. That's the good news. It’s also labor intensive. Bad news. The upside is that this recipe makes enough to satiate the obsessed. The last time I made it I was visiting my friends Samantha and Chris in Denver. I met them during the culinary tour of Oaxaca. Chris was always looking for this bread in Oaxaca. So it’s probably wise that his wife is a master at this recipe. She made it look simple. Between three of us we ate two large loaves in a 12-hour period. Chris is a King of Moles. He'll be here tomorrow as guest writer.

What I like to do is serve it with a bowl of strong, frothy agua de chocolate so that I can dip the soft pieces of bread into the chocolate.

PAN DE MUERTOS

Excerpted from My Mexican Kitchen by Diana Kennedy

The starter can be made ahead or the day before. (Any leftover can be frozen but is best used right away.) In fact, the final mixture can be kneaded and then left overnight in the refrigerator - which I do to help it develop a better flavor - and brought up to room temperature before forming an the final rising.

Yield: 1 large bread, about 11 inches in diameter, or three small ones

The Starter

1 pound (roughly 4 cups) unbleached flour, plus extra for bowl and working surface
1 ¼ teaspoons sea salt, finely ground
2 ounces (1/3 cup) sugar
Scant 1 ounce (3 scant Tablespoons) crumbled cake yeast or 1½ scant Tablespoons
Dry yeast
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons water
3 large eggs, lightly beaten

Put the flour, salt, sugar and yeast into a mixing bowl and gradually beat in the water and eggs. Continue beating until the dough forms a cohesive mass around the dough hook; it should be sticky, elastic and shiny about 5 minutes. Turn the formed dough onto a floured board and form into a round shape. Butter and flour a clean bowl. Place the dough in it and cover with greased plastic wrap and a towel and set aside in a warm place - ideally 70°F - until the dough doubles in volume, about 2 hours.

Final Dough

The Starter torn into small pieces
8 ounces (1 cup) sugar
7 ounces (14 tablespoons) unsalted butter, softened, plus extra for greasing baking sheets
1 pound unbleached flour, plus extra for board and bowl
8 egg yolks, lightly beaten with 2 Tablespoons water
¼ cup water, approximately
1 teaspoon orange flower water and/or grated rind of 1 orange

Glaze
4 egg yolks, lightly beaten
¼ cup melted unsalted butter, approximately
1/3 cup sugar, approximately

Liberally grease 4 baking sheets (for both breads while proofing).
Put the starter, sugar and butter into a mixing bowl and mix well, gradually beating in the flour and egg yolks alternately. Beat in the water and flavoring, you should have slightly sticky, smooth, shiny dough that just holds its shape (since eggs, flours and climates differ, you may need to reduce or increase the liquid). Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and form into a round cushion shape.

Wash out mixing bowl, butter and flour it, and replace the dough in it. Cover with greased plastic wrap and a towel and set aside in a warm place - ideally about 70°F - for about 1½ hours, until it almost doubles in size, or set aside overnight in the bottom of the refrigerator.

Bring the dough up to room temperature before attempting to work with it. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and divide the dough into two equal pieces. Set one aside for forming later. Take three quarters of the dough and roll it into a smooth ball. Press it out to a circle about 8 inches in diameter - it should be about 1-inch thick. Press all around the edge to form a narrow ridge - like the brim of a hat - and transfer to one of the greased baking sheets. Cover loosely with greased plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place (about 70°F) to rise about half its size - about 1 hour. Taking the remaining one-quarter of the dough, divide it into four equal parts. Roll one of the parts into a smooth ball. Roll the other 3 strips about 8 inches long, forming knobs as you go for the "bones." Transfer the four pieces to another greased tray, cover loosely with greased plastic wrap, and set aside to rise for about 1 hour.

Repeat these steps to form the second bread with the other piece of dough that was set aside. Heat oven to 375°F.

At the end of the rising period, carefully place the strips of dough forming the "bones" across the main part of the bread, place the round ball in the middle to form the "skull," and press your finger in hard to form the eye sockets. Brush the surface of the dough well with the beaten yolks and bake at the top of the oven until well browned and springy - about 15 to 20 minutes. Turn off the oven, open the door, and let the bread sit there for about 5 minutes more. Remove from the oven, brush with melted butter, and sprinkle well with sugar.

Banana Split Cake

Sometimes we are tough on ourselves. We try a new receipe, in a new kitchen in an unfamiliar oven and think 'eh, it's ok.' As I continue to bake my way through recent happenings I came across a recipe in of all places a Better Homes & Garden magazine called Holdiay Baking 2006. The magazine is full of dessert recipes with peanut butter as a feature ingredient. We all know by now how central this ingredient is in my baking including the Gourmet cover girl.

This receipe appealed to me as it has some techniques I hadn't come across before (perhaps because I don't read these magazines?). And the other factor was I had a banana and I hate to waste food. I'm also adjusting to moving around a kitchen with a 18"x 12" workspace. At some point when I feel more settled into my IBK I will share some of my kitchen adaptations. I am continually surprised by how little you really do need.

This marble cake requires about 40 minutes of prep, if you follow my method. Baking time is about one hour. I'm not sure about those kitchen people at BHG. But the recipe gets a bit confusing. I've restructured it below as all sense got whipped out of it. The results? I brought it to work--these efforts don't stay in my cottage--astounding. Workmates came in to my office with chocolate on their fingers and crumbs on their file folders asking "Is there more? I only got two pieces."

We never know how good something is standing alone in your kitchen. After all isn't the reward of baking sharing with others?

Ed. Note: A second post in a week purely because of this recipe and the image taken with my new digital SLR! It's a beauty, eh?

Banana Split Cake

1 cup butter

4 eggs

3 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking soda

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/2 cup mashed ripe banana (1 large)

1/2 cup dairy sour cream

1/2 cup milk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup strawberry preserves

Few drops red food coloring

1/2 cup preseweetened cocoa powder

Glaze

8 oz. chocolate chips

6 oz. butter

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Allow butter and eggs to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. 

Meanwhile, grease and flour a 10" bundt pan.  In a medium bowl, stir together flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda; set aside. In a separate and small bowl, combine banana, sour cream, milk and vanilla; set aside.

In a large bowl, beat butter with an electric mixer on low to medium speed for 30 seconds. Add sugar; beat until fluffy. Add eggs, on at a time, beating well after each addition.  Alternately add flour mixture and banana mxiture to butter mixture, beating on low speed after each addition just until combined.

Prepare two small bowls.  In the first small bowl, stir together 1 cup of the batter, the strawberry preserves, and red food coloring.  In the second small bowl, stir together another 1 cup of the batter and the cocoa powder. Spoon half of the remaning plain batter into the preapred 10" bunt pan. Add strawberry batter. Top with remaining plain batter, then chocolate batter. Use a narrow metal spatula to gently swirl the batters.

Bake 55-65 minutes until a wooden skewer or toothpick inserted near center comes out clean. Cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes; remove from pan.  Cool comptely on wire rack about 90 minutes.

Glaze

In a small saucepan, heat chocolate and butter together until just melted. Take off heat. Continue stirring until melted and shiny. Drizzle over cooled cake.

Ed. Note: The cocoa powder and batter stage is a bother. The dry powder made for a bread dough consistency. My remedy was to carefully thin with sour cream and a smidge of milk. Be patient, slowly count to 30 as you add these two ingredients in small amounts. Do they really test these recipes in home kitchens?! Recipe adapted from Holiday Baking 2006, BHG.

Unearthly Summer Fun - PB Ice Cream

             

Cravings hit at the strangest time.  My fellow gophers in cubicle life have come to expect my outbursts to be around food. Wednesday's out burst was "Peanut butter ice cream with bits of Reese's cups--doesn't that sound good."  KK, quipped back, "Hey you over there! Don't get us started."  But it had struck so I needed to address the urge.

Having recently moved into a small in-law cottage and spontaneously deciding to make something in my IBK is an ongoing experiment.  First I had to recall where the Krups Glacerie had been placed in the overstuffed storage shed, dig around and drag it out, only to learn that the container needed 24 hours to pre-freeze.  OK so this would be a 2-day impulse effort. It's a fine line between craving and obsession and I had just crossed it.

Most of the history of ice cream is checkered with claims by the French and the Italians. But what is known is that the first recorded bowl of ice cream was in China in the Tang Dynasty (AD 618-907). It was made with a combination of horse, water buffalo, cow and goat milks that were heated and allowed to ferment then mixed with flour and camphor.  Also in the Middle East there was a drink called, charbet, made with water and fruit.  In Japan a type of ice slush was made in the 11th century.

Needless to say there are many languages of ice cream. Sorbet and sherbet differ in that the latter contains milk and the former does not and relies heavily on the quality and natural sugars of the fruit. Ice milks contain no cream. Hmmm, skip that shall we? And then we arrive at Philadelphia style ice-cream which is yielded from uncooked cream and sugar. But for me, during summer there is no substitute for the true blue variety--rich, full fat. So in selecting the ingredients it was going to be necessary to include heavy cream, full fat milk and high-quality eggs. The recipe that I was envisioning had to have that rich full mouth taste with a smooth as silk taste. My recipe would be a French style ice cream with a cooked custard base. Interestingly in a piece over at Slate ice cream can't legally be labeled "ice cream" in France until it contains eight egg yolks per quart.

Homemade ice cream requires you to pay attention and to exhibit some patience.  If carefully followed the results will be rewardingly indulgent and heavenly ice cream. This particularly recipe is no exception. And now that my craving has been satitatied who wants some ice cream?

Mother's Cake

               

The earliest Mother's Day celebration is often traced back to the spring day celebrations in ancient Greece to honor Rhea, the mythical mother of the gods. However in the 1600s, England celebrated a day called "Mothering Sunday" on the fourth Sunday of Lent. At that time, many of England's poor worked as servants for the wealthy. Since most jobs were far from their homes, the servants live in the homes of their employers.

On Mothering Sunday, servants were given the day off and many went to spend the day with who else but mom.  Many would bring along a special cake called the Mothering Cake.

As Christianity spread throughout Europe and the rest of the world, the celebration changed to honor the "Mother Church," the spiritual power that gave them life and protected them from harm. Over time, the church festival blended with Mothering Sunday celebration. People began honoring their mothers and the church.

This cake is a simple flourless chocolate cake and was a long-time favorite of the now departed Queen Mum.

Image: Louis Toffoli

Mother's cake

Yields One 9" Cake

½	c	almonds; skinned
6	oz	chopped semi-sweet Chocolate
¾	c	granulated sugar
6	oz	unsalted butter
6	large	eggs-- yolks and whites separated
1	tsp	fresh lemon juice
½	c	heavy cream
2	ts	instant espresso powder
8	oz	chopped semi-sweet chocolate

CAKE

Toast almonds in a single layer on a cookie sheet in a 350F degree oven for about 15-minutes or until the almonds are lightly colored and fragrant. Make sure to shake the pan occasionally to turn almonds while toasting.

Pre-heat oven to 375F degrees. Spray the bottom of a 9-inch spring form pan with a non-stick cooking spray. Dust lightly with flour or very fine, dry bread crumbs. Shake out any excess and set prepared pan aside.

Warm chopped chocolate in the top of a small double boiler over warm water set at moderate heat. Cover until partially melted, then stir until smooth. Set aside to cool to room temperature.

Reserve 1/2 cup sugar and place the remaining 1/4 cup sugar with the almonds in a food processor or blender and chop until nuts are fine and powdery. Set aside.

In a large mixing bowl beat the butter until soft. Add 1/4 cup of sugar and reserve the remaining 1/4 cup sugar for use later. Beat sugar and butter until thoroughly combined. Add the egg yolks, one at a time, and continue to beat until smooth. Add the melted chocolate and blend on low speed until combined. Add almonds and continue to beat mixture on a low speed setting.

In a clean bowl with clean beaters, beat the egg whites with salt and lemon juice. Start on low speed and gradually increase until the egg whites hold a soft shape. Reduce speed again and add remaining 1/4 cup sugar. Then on high speed, beat egg whites to soft peaks. Gently fold the egg whites into the chocolate mixture about one-third at a time until blended.

Pour the cake batter into the prepared springform pan an quickly rotate to level the batter. Bake for 20 minutes at 375F degrees, then reduce heat to 350F degrees and continue to bake an additional 50 minutes. Remove cake from pan when cooled, after about 1 hour.

ICING

Prepare the icing by scalding the heavy cream in a saucepan over medium heat until a thin skin forms on the top. Add the espresso or coffee powder and whisk to dissolve. Add the chocolate and whisk to dissolve, for about a minute or two. Remove from heat and continue to stir to finish melting the chocolate. Let icing cool for about 15-minutes, then pour over the top of the cake, starting at the center. Gently push the icing with a spatula over the sides to dribble down the cake.

Top with shaved chocolate, or whipped cream just prior to serving. Strawberries on the side make a nice spring touch.